I spent the rest of the week with my friend from Cairns relaxing and shopping for family and friends (shhh your Christmas presents are a secret!). At the end of the week I packed my backpack and boarded the Taka for a week long live aboard dive trip. It was simply, amazing. There really isn’t any other word for it. It was like 5 days of living a documentary or Blue Planet. I met some really cool people; from the crew to the passengers, everyone was a blast! To organize things I will describe everything day by day.
Saturday
Our first dive was at Challenger Bay, an easy warm up dive, regardless of it’s name. We spent most of it practicing with our dive buddies and acclimating, there wasn’t that much to see as it was mostly sand. The next 2 dives were at Cod Hole, famous for, you guessed it, potato cod. There was so much to see, from the large cod, to the tiniest nudibranch. One we found was seriously the size of my thumbnail, it was so tiny and colorful too. While we were there our tour group had a cod feeding where the crew fed the cod around you and you could pet them! They were completely unafraid of us and didn’t shy away from the occasional pat or scratch.
One very friendly potato cod
One got so close to me it brushed the top of my head as it swam past! The next dive was slightly nerve wracking as it was my first night dive. Not because of sharks or anything like that, but because of the current and possibly losing someone or the boat. When we descended it was the weirdest feeling. It was like I was a astronaut floating in space. The only thing you could see was the green glow of the boat lights and the beams of other group’s dive lights, it felt very similar to a scifi movie; the boat was the mother ship and we were scouts exploring the surface of an undiscovered planet. This dive we did at Challenger Bay and it looked completely different at night. Travallies swam between our dive lights, looking for prey in our beams as a white tip reef shark ghosted through the coral. It was so alien and wonderful. On a less spectacular note part of our group, including me got separated and we could no longer see the lights from the boat, oops. Luckily we had one of the instructors with us and we surfaced a good ways away from the boat. Calmly we lit ourselves up with our dive lights and waited for the dingy. We were thrown a rope and told to ‘hang on’. Suddenly Whoosh! We were being pulled back to the boat, which was cool because we like an underwater scooter, or what I imagine its like. After that we watched sharks swim at the surface in the light of the boats and hunt little fish. They would calmly swim in circles and then charge, snapping up a fish in the teeth! That night we headed out to Osprey reef, which is 4 hours by helicopter from shore. The ride out there was the bumpiest ride I’ve ever had, which didn’t help because we had to sleep. After nearly being thrown from the top bunk I pulled the mattress to the floor and slept on the floor instead.
Sunday
Sunday was all about Osprey reef. I don’t remember the name of our first site, but we had a shark feeding there!!!!!! Squee!!!!!!!!!! (I couldn’t possibly use enough exclamation points to emphasize how excited I was!) The crew made us hug the walls of the reef, sitting so we could all see, but far enough away from the action that we wouldn’t be accidently be bit. They then lowered giant frozen tuna heads on a chain and tied it to the reef. After they released those heads, it was a feeding frenzy!
Omnomnom tuna!
So, many sharks, there were at least 20; white tip reef and grey reef sharks were everywhere, chomping happily on frozen fish. Halfway into the feeding one instructor was pointing excitedly in one direction, at the huge oceanic silvertip swimming in from the open blue water. It was a big deal, because oceanic silver tips are open water fish and are naturally skittish. We had three visit us and participate in the feeding, how lucky is that! No, I did no feel scared during the feeding; the sharks kept their distance both before, during, and after the feeding. I also got stung, by coral. Yeah, they can do that, oops. It wasn’t too bad, it just itched for a bit. After that we headed out to Halfway Wall, another first for me on that trip. You don’t fully appreciate how deep the ocean until you look down and there is nothing but blue below you. Halfway Wall is basically the edge of a shallow portion of Osprey reef that plummets to 1000 m (I was constantly chanting ‘don’t drop your camera, don’ drop your camera’ in my head the entire dive). We got to see several endemic species at that site (species only found in that area or that site, in the world!) Brightly colored pyramid butterfly fish and anemone fish swam among us as we floated by fire coral and anemone. During part of the dive we swam under an over hang and if you looked above you, you’d see fish swimming upside down! (Very disorienting.) The next dive was at the Entrance, a series of coral bommies that lead to the inner circle of Osprey reef. During that dive we got to see sweetlips, reef sharks, fire dart fish, and Christmas tree worms!
Monday
We left Osprey reef and headed towards sites like the Clam Gardens! I really don’t think it should have been called that as there weren’t that many clams, but there were plenty of parrotfish! They were every wear and so colorful! They were so bright that they made Woodstock look monochrome! I even saw a sea cucumber move! For non-divers that is significant, because they normally look like sausages laying on the bottom. I even got video of it! It looks like its roaring! After that we headed out to Steve’s Bommie, or the pillar of death, because there are so many venomous things hanging out in that particular spot. We saw eels, more nudibranches, nemos, lionfish, and stonefish, one of the most venomous fish in the ocean! However, it is pretty much the most poorly designed fish in the ocean.
He's sad because he failed evolution
It has no swim bladder, so it can’t float and can’t swim very well, trust me I’ve seen it. It also has this permanent scowl on its face, like it knows your laughing at it because it fails so spectacularly. It sits on the bottom most of the time, so you can only get stung if you step on it. Since we were diving we were fine. I spent a good amount of time at the site schooling with these yellow striped fish. It was so much fun! I would swim in and they would move away, but when I stopped and floated they schooled around me, I was an honorary fish, my dream has come true!
Going to "school"
The last dive of the day was another night dive, no we did not get lost this time. The site was called the Beer Gardens because a loggerhead turtle frequently sleeps there (Haha, dive humor). In addition to the couch sized sleeping turtle we also saw sleeping parrot fish and a peacock mantis shrimp! These shrimp are super colorful and very bold. They’re about the size of your forearm and have two large balls of hardened calcium on the claws that they use to whack they’re prey on the head and kill them. They’ve been known to crack camera lenses and 2cm thick glass! With boxing gloves like that I’d be pretty cocky too!
Tuesday
On the last day e only had two dives, this time on Norman reef. Even though it is a more visited reef and therefore more damaged, there was plenty to see. I got to see a baby lionfish, a green turtle, and flatworms (which look like colorful handkerchiefs that have bunny ears). I also got up close and personal to a white tip reef shark. It was sitting on the bottom in the sand and I decided to join it, and it didn’t swim away! It let me take a few pictures before it decided that it had enough and swam off.
One very unimpressed fish...
This particular part of my travels was very significant for me and it was one of the best things I’ve ever done. It makes everything I’ve learned and hope to do more significant and personal. Instead of a fact on a flashcard it’s now are living creature I can associate with. Cheesy as it sounds it was life changing.